Wednesday, June 6, 2012

How To: Sunday Paseo- Boyaca in a Day

Last weekend, Natalie and I joined Brighid's host family for a traditional Colombian Sunday paseo. Colombians often work on Saturdays, so this means they take Sunday relaxing and free time very seriously. Brighid's host family invited us along to a town called Raquira. Raquira is an indigenous word meaning "city of pots." and the town certainly lives up to its name. So the three gringas went on the family road trip (about 4 hours from Bogota) to go pot-shopping. We certainly got more than we asked for, and ended up visiting almost all the hot spots in the department (equivalent of a state) of Boyaca (northeast of Bogota's department). Here's how we managed to squeeze everything into a day and have a successful Colombian Sunday.

1.  Squeeze as many people as possible into a little hatchback. Gas prices are HIGH in Colombia, and the roads are pretty winding. So be prepared to be a little squished and make the best of it. We chose to pass the time singing the Colombian National Anthem, speaking in English when no one else understands, and taking lots of landscape pictures.


2.  Bring snacks. We introduced Brighid's host parents to PB & J. They were pleasantly surprised by its deliciousness. It was a great cultural exchange. 

3. Be prepared to stop for coffee and church breaks. We assumed at first that we were stopping in the town of Chiquinquirá for a bathroom break. We ended up hanging out for an hour and a half exploring while the family went to mass in the giant cathedral. One city to check off the list.

Yes, that is a giant poster of Pope JP II. 
4. Have no expectations. I had read about Raquira in the guide books, and I'm a fan of ceramics, so it was on my list of places to see. But I wasn't sure what to expect and I was thrilled with the result. Raquira is literally filled with ceramics. Cheap beautiful pottery from dishwear to massive pots I only wish I could plant beautiful things in. Alas, I'm limited by luggage restrictions and practicality. So I settled on some classic kitchen pieces.



5. Take the long way around. The family was asking us which places we wanted to see, to which we responded "anywhere!" We ended up going further into Boyaca and visiting the town of Villa de Leyva. This was a treat because we have plans to go there next weekend. So we got a preview and can't wait to go back to the beautiful, desert-like, mountain town.  It was worth it to go a little further out of the way to hit another city on our list (we're up to three now).

The family (Manuela wins the cutest family member award) in
Villa de Leyva
6. When hungry, stop at any side-of-the-road barbecue joint. These are literally all over the highways around Colombia. And it's because so many people take these types of road trips on Sundays and festivos. Now, this may not be the first choice for any vegetarians here, but the plantains, potatoes, and arepas make it doable. And when you don't eat meat you get to attract really adorable puppies to you.


7.  When the sign says "Dairy Capital of Colombia," stop and get some dairy! It was getting late and when we made our final stop I was nervous we would never get home. The family wanted a snack of hot chocolate and cheese (a popular combo here) so we made a pit stop in Ubate- the dairy capital of Colombia. The stop was a quick one, and turned out to be SO worth it. Not only did we find GREEK YOGURT, but the store owner gave us token mini-pots to remember the day. Such a great keepsake for a very successful day.









Saturday, June 2, 2012

Colombia- Round Two.

Hello friends! Great news to report. I have a lovely, new home! This past week I have been settling in and getting acquainted to my new neighborhood. I now live on the top (6th) floor of an apartment in the neighborhood of Colina Campestre. This neighborhood, though further north, is only about a 15 minute drive to school and comes with lots of perks.

Giant terris! 

One of those apartments is Natalie's!
The first being that my buds Natalie and Mayis are right around the corner! And I now live with a woman named Gloria (Modern Family references encouraged and appropriate!) and a university student, Daniela. We all get a long great and I feel like I really have a host family (especially because I've already met half of Gloria's family in week one.)

Like I said, here is the family hanging out Saturday morning. (Gloria is on the air mattress)

The neighborhood is MUCH safer but doesnt' feel closed off like some more residential parts of cities can be.  There is a cheaper neighborhood complete with a great bakery, fruit stand, and a mysterious cupcake lady Natalie and I are on a mission to find. There is also a mall nearby with a cheap movie theater and get this... SUSHI and MIDDLE EASTER RESTAURANTS! Nom nom nom. But don't worry, there are still arepas on the street corner.

At first I was hesitant to move to such a nicer area of town. And things like public transportation are more challenging here (the richer are more likely to have cars). But I know that I am still getting an authentic Colombian experience here. The nerves and anxiety from the last few weeks have settled and I feel more like myself again here. It doesn't hurt that I have some amazing trips coming up during vacation, and my students are really making progress at school. I have lots to be happy about here. I'm especially glad I now have a place to call home again!

My awesome shelving unit.

My little room with the most comfortable bedspread ever.
Also, there are no Care Bears on my mattress like the last place :)

Yes, this is way above my expectations too.  You can even flush the toilet paper.


I think I'm gonna be just fine here!








Tuesday, May 22, 2012

Tranquila

Tranquila- this word wasn't taught to me in Spanish classes, but I've been hearing it and practicing it since day one in Colombia. Tranquila has many English synonyms such as relax, calm down, don't worry, you're welcome, or chill out. It's also one of those words that is used in ways we don't have an equivalent use for, and it is used A LOT. it can be used as an expression but also to describe a person or place. Everyone from teachers, to host moms, to the robbers have told me to tranquila. (Not surprisingly someone like me who cries easily gets told to chill out a lot.) But I have also been told I'm tranquila as a person (which I took as saying I'm more or less easy-going).

So the last few weeks in Bogota haven't been easy for me working many hours, healing and moving on, while still dealing with everyday cultural challenges of being in a new, weird place. Two weeks ago I had some particularly rough few days, and I felt anything but tranquila. So I thought about where I go to find tranquila, and the obvious answer for me is Vermont. Specifically way up in the little corner of Lake Champlain neighboring Quebec at my lake house. Long story short... I needed to make getting to Vermont and getting back to a peaceful place possible, and I did.


I have spent the last four days between Boston and Vermont, feeling more tranquila. I ate bagels and a lobster roll. I played with my puppies and stuck my feet and hands in the lake. I drank wine and (good) beer with friends. And I snuggled and picnicked with my love. I got the boost I needed to keep me going.

I wasn't planning on coming back to the states at any point this year. In reality, there isn't much about the states that I miss when I am away. My idea of a "home" has always been pretty open and has much more to do with the people I'm with that makes a place tranquila for me. But sometimes you surprise yourself with what you need. And I needed this weekend.

Thanks to everyone that helped me make this little break possible, and thanks to everyone who is part of my support system for this whole year's ups and downs. Tranquila is an important mantra I am going to keep holding onto throughout this year.



Tuesday, May 15, 2012

Not-So-Free Trade

Today marks the beginning of the United States and Colombia Free Trade Agreement (FTA). How did I know this was happening? Surely not from reading any American news sources. I learned this at school when news broke that a car bomb had exploded only a few miles away. Five people are reported dead and at least 19 are injured. There have been other bombs found throughout the city today.

Who or what is to blame? Many say FARC; many say because today marks the beginning of a disastrous economic shift for the Colombian and  US economies. I won't pretend to be an expert on trade, (though I do love my Student Labor Action Movement folks and am proud to have gone to a certified Fair Trade college!) Free Trade Agreements have a record of ruining exactly what they are portrayed as helping-- strengthening economies. 

I have noticed living here how many more products say "Hecho en Colombia" than say "Made in the USA" at home. Colombia is rich with farm production of delicious fruits and coffee and really whatever they need. Apparently the FTA is going to help the consumer (at the expense of producers) and we will see the benefits like cheaper flowers for the US and cheaper cars in Colombia. A big price to pay for a discount if you ask me...

I think this article from Colombia Reports says it best, so I will leave it to the journalists to state some of the consequences of what happened today. On a personal note, it's impossible to 100% forget that Colombia is a conflict- state. It's just below the surface in everyone and everything I experience here. More reflections on this later, but for now please read on... 


FTA will negatively affect 1.8 million farmers in Colombia: Report

On the eve of the start of the Colombia – U.S. Free Trade Agreement (FTA), the charity Oxfam said Monday the deal will bankrupt small farmers and increase poverty in rural Colombia.
“A significant number of small farm households would see substantial drops in their income as a result of the FTA,” the organization claimed in a report presented at a press conference Monday. “This would result in a deeper vulnerability for a population that has already been disproportionately affected by Colombia’s internal conflict.”
Oxfam’s report, presented in conjunction with human rights groups Planeta Paz and the U.S. Office on Colombia, said Colombia’s 1.8 million farmers will see their income drop by 16% as a result of the FTA, which takes effect Tuesday.
In an analysis of the small farm economy in Colombia, the report’s authors examined expected changes in domestic prices and what those changes could mean for the size and production levels of small farms.
According to the report, the deal with Colombia’s leading trade partner will hit the poorest farmers the hardest, arguing that 400,000 of those already making below minimum wage, currently set at $328.08 a month, will lose between 48% to 70% of their income.
To make up for the loss, the report said that farmers are "likely to take up coca cultivation" for illegal armed groups. The other option for farmers will be to “migrate to urban areas to join some 5 million Colombians – over 10 percent of Colombia’s total population –  who have been forcibly displaced from the countryside over the last 12 years and the great majority of whom live in extreme poverty,” it claimed.
The Colombian government has denied that the FTA will harm key agricultural sectors.
“I do not personally believe, nor does the government believe that an apocalyptic shadow is rising over the Colombian countryside, agriculture and livestock industries that will wipe out everything that has been built in the country,” the Agriculture Minister, Juan Camilo Restrepo has said.
The FTA will eliminate tariffs on more than 70% of Colombia’s agricultural exports to the U.S. immediately, while all remaining tariffs will end within 19 years. Duties on some of the more crucial exports, including rice and chicken, will be phased out over that time.
On Tuesday tariffs will end on 80% of American exports of consumer and industrial products.
Oxfam branded the agricultural negotiations of the deal “unfair,” criticizing the fact that sugar – a major Colombian export -- has been excluded from the tariff-dropping program all together.
It also argued the deal leaves Colombian farmers competing against heavily-subsidized American products.
“For practically all activities that compete with imports, the net income or profit would decrease to zero,” the report argued.
That would be true for rice, barley, beans, maize, sorghum, wheat, chicken, and pork – products which would all become more expensive to produce than to sell.
“The future of the country's agricultural sector will necessarily depend on the implementation of a reform and modernization program, consistent and enduring over time,” the report noted.
Favored trade treatment with the U.S. and the eventual elimination of all tariffs will leave Colombia with its hands tied for trade negotiations with other nations, Oxfam also alleged.
“This takes away an enormous amount of flexibility from Colombia in future trade negotiations,” the report said. “It impedes the country from granting preferential access to other countries for products in which Colombia has a comparative advantage, in exchange for favorable treatment in products of interest to Colombia.”
Oxfam has been an outspoken critic of the FTA. On the signing of the agreement in October 2011, the organization called the deal “a step backward for development and poverty reduction in Colombia.”
The FTA has also been fiercely criticized by human rights organizations and unions in both Colombia and the U.S. due to ongoing unionist killings and labor rights violations.



For further reading, and different viewpoints:

Thursday, May 10, 2012

Hold Up!


So I am back at school full time again and working through the roller coaster that each day of teaching brings. There are countless ways schools in the US differ from schools in Colombia, and some are more important differences than others. Some are actually enjoyable, like the fact that students here are much more affectionate and overall more caring than the typical US teenager. But some are annoying like the degrading playboy bunny notebooks all the boys have and the fact that all notebook paper is graph paper (seriously, no lines!). But one thing I think all the volunteers have experienced is just how often class gets interrupted. We’re talking big scale and small scale here. Here’s a list of my top ten favorites so far:

1.       Today was Dia del Saber, del Hacer, y de la Sana Convivencia. Don’t ask me what that exactly translates too but it means the math, science, social studies, religion/ethics, and Spanish teachers all programed different activities for the entire school to do today. This is great, because those subjects deserve special attention (and English Day comes in September), but this means I had to supervise my kids taking a math test today instead of teaching them future tense.  My classes are already all behind and at different levels. These special days are pretty unusual in the US.

2.       Dia this, Dia that! There’s always a day of something we need to celebrate. Language Day is celebrated through a field trip to the theater next week. You already know about Women’s Day and we had day of the student and child as well. Next week is Teacher’s Day and I can’t wait to see what goodies I get from this! Alas, I will miss more classes though…

3.       Our classrooms are outdoor style, meaning all hallways are outside and there aren't screens on the windows. This is sort of silly for Bogota considering the amount of rain we get. A few weeks ago we had a minor tornado run through sixth period. Many classes flooded and my ninth grade boys were screaming like babies over the lightning and wind whipping through the courtyard.

4.       Outdoor hallways mean pigeons in my room. Not often, but enough.

5.       Then there was the time my ninth graders moved into a fifth grade classroom because their wing is now under construction. About two days after the move, eight fifth-graders knocked on the door. They asked to take down their decorations and in the middle of my lesson the kids were removing posters from the walls. Needless to say I couldn’t get much done.

6.       Mass/Pastoral activities. Heck, this is the same as Catholic schools in the US.

7.       For the boys classes, anytime a girl enters the room there’s a solid to minutes of whistling.

8.       Sex education class. (And other psychological related things.) I remember having Life Skills class in middle school but they take psychology and mental health very seriously here, which is great! I was really tempted to go to the sex ed class when my students were pulled out but it was all in Spanish and I had grading to do.

9.       The last few weeks have been school-wide Olyimpics (Why they are not waiting until the REAL Olympics in July to learn about this I do not know and it boggles my mind!) So naturally we dedicated an entire day of school to the opening ceremonies and periodically students get pulled out of class early for games. This week about ten girls were pulled for a soccer game and came back to class with Vuvuzelas and balloons in celebration of their win. You try teaching present perfect with vuvuzelas.  Impossible.

10.   Ah, and finally. Last Thursday in one of my favorite classes, I plugged in the CD player to do a listening comprehension activity. The player immediately started smoking and within five seconds I (stupidly) unplugged it. But the cord was completely melted and the entire room was full of smoke. The smell of electrical wires flooded the air. The students evacuated to the outside hallways and went to get the maintenance man. Well, this was at 6:50 in the morning and the maintenance man comes in at 8. I was out of an activity and out of a classroom. Not one of my shining moments as a teacher.

There are new challenges each day and I certainly face the unexpected. But there are great surprises too. Some of my tenth graders knew I was having a hard week and wrote me a beautiful card with a little puppy stuffed animal and chocolates. It was exactly what I needed. These past few weeks after “the bad night” haven’t been easy. But grounding myself in my teaching is helping me see what is important here and why I need to stay. I wouldn’t have it any other way. 

Thursday, April 26, 2012

And then everything changed...

A few years ago, I downloaded a free Itunes song by Juanes (one of Colombia's most famous musical exports) called Mala Gente-- "bad people". Well, two weeks ago I had an encounter with some mala gente that has led to my prolonged blog absence. Let me explain...

Last Friday night, (Friday the 13th!) while my roommate, host mom and I were home, five people broke into our home and robbed us. They took many things that were important to us-- from our computers and cameras right down to our hiking shoes. It was probably one of the scariest experiences of my life and I hope it never happens again. 

Now of course, many people's reaction to this has been to point fingers on Colombia. She has a reputation especially in the US that is hard to escape. But I'll set the record straight right now, it was simply bad people. Mala gente are everywhere around the world. In huge cities like Bogota and in quiet backyards in New Hampshire. It's a horrible reality, but it can't be ignored. 

So after the scariest 40 minutes of my life, the robbers left and my life here in Bogota was changed for good. That night my roommate Emilie and I moved to a hotel and were immediately supported by the WorldTeach family near and far. On Sunday we officially moved out of our house with Luz, and I moved in with a fabulous couple that is a part of WorldTeach- Dave and Mary Rae (more on them later). Emilie's dad flew down from Miami and they decided Emilie would be best at home in the US for now. I took a few days off from school, and Mom and Dave flew down last Thursday (as they had previously planned) to spend the week with me. Since last Thursday, I have spent the time playing tour guide for Mom and Dave and also trying to move on. 

This process is absolutely going to be a long one. Tonight, I begin my search for a new home and continue my search for a new normal here. Even though those people took many things from me, it is not about their material value. I am thankful that night was not any worse and I will not let them defeat me. 

Emilie and I both agree that even though now everything has changed, we will not let this define our experience here in Colombia. Colombians are some of the most generous and kind people I have ever known. They want their country to prosper and be rid of the violent and criminal reputation that does not represent this culture. 

This explains my absence and please know that as things "return to normal" here I keep you updated. I could not honestly portray my experience here if I did not write the bad with the good and include every sense of my reality here. Life is good  here and I wouldn't want to be anywhere else right now. That Friday the 13th was a horrible day, but I have many more great days ahead of me. You will hear from me again soon!

Much love, 
Kate





Wednesday, April 11, 2012

Semana Santa in the Sun!

Happy Hump Day readers! I am back to school with the sniffles again but now a little tanner from last week's vacation on the Caribbean! I journeyed with some fellow WorldTeach volunteers to Cartagena and Santa Marta along the Colombian coast. These are two of the most popular tourist destinations in Colombia and for good reason. The beaches are gorgeous; the culture is strong; and the weather is HOT! Semana Santa aka Holy Week is a national holiday in Colombia and most of Latin America. It seemed like the perfect chance for us to meet up with some other coastal volunteers and relax after our first few months of teaching. Let me share the highlights with you through some visuals...

This is Cartagena. The view is from the Castle of San Felipe (you know how those Conquistadors love their medieval architecture!)  Cartagena includes the neighborhoods of "Boca Grande" which looks like little Miami with skyscrapers and city lights and "El Centro" which is the oldest, walled-in, and very colonial part of the city-- a UNESCO World Heritage Site.


This is the Pegasus Plaza. Appropriately named for its massive Pegasus statues. Also you see the yellow clock tower. This was the entrance point for Africans brought here during the slave triangle trade. Cartagena is still rich with Afro-Colombian culture and much of this history remains well preserved.
Here I am at La Cevicheria! As seen on No Reservations with Anthony Bourdain. It's my first time eating ceviche (I had the cod with lime and coconut) and I was a big fan.    

This is where the Summit of the Americas is being held a week after our visit! Obama and nearly all other heads of states from the Americas will be in attendance. Barack, we checked out the city for you. I think you are going to like it here!

And these are my perfectly normal travel companions, Brighid and Natalie, also hailing from Bogota by way of New England. Together, we make a spectacular team! (Fish not included.)

And then we went to the beach. The two beaches we went to were ironically called Hollywood and Los Angelos. This was Brighid's first time to the Caribbean! An upgrade from the Long Island Sound.

Los Angelos. A little different than the one in the USA. Note the mountains in the background and the beach to ourselves.


















This is Santa Marta. Smaller than Cartagena but just as charming. It's supposedly one of the oldest cities in South America.

These bags are wildly popular all over Colombia. And they are mostly made by women here in Santa Marta and by indigenous communities nearby. This woman (and her adorable son) is adjusting the straps to my yellow and black striped purchase. I feel like a local with it now.

Sunset on the wall of El Centro in Cartagena. A beautiful place in a beautiful country.