Tuesday, July 10, 2012

Ecuador! (Or in other words... Thank goodness teachers get vacation too)

I made a goal for myself before coming to Colombia to travel to at least one other South American country while living on this vast continent. Some countries are easier to get to than others. So when my friend Brighid said she wanted to return to Ecuador after studying there, I jumped at the chance to join her. 

Some say Ecuador and Colombia are like twins. It’s undeniable that they are similar. But after just our first day there, we agreed that both countries have unique personalities, and I would tell anyone both countries are worth visiting. In some ways, I preferred Ecuador to Colombia. The women wear fewer heels, the food is a little bit tastier, and the indigenous culture is a little bit stronger. And many of the great things about Colombia can be found there as well- fruit juices, beautiful biodiversity, Spanish that is easy to understand. Of course living in and visiting countries are hard to compare. But I know I would love to return to Ecuador, and would put it on my list of possible places to live in the future.

So what did I love about Ecuador so much? Let me show you! (In 50 words or less for each, I promise.)

QUITO
In list form: my new favorite hostel "Travellers Inn;" amazing Mexican food at "Red Hot Chili Peppers;" giant virgins overlooking the city; the centro is the first UNESCO World Heritage site; It's like Bogota but a bit warmer and a lot smaller; the people were super friendly; and the souvenir shopping was Ah-maz-ing!

Overlooking colorful Quito with "the Wolfpack."
From left to right: Me , Natalie, Vanessa, and Brighid

OTAVALO
We joked about bring back a real alpaca, and I think we pretty much did with the amount of blankets, ponchos, hats, socks, etc we found. Stuff is made locally, with good quality, and thanks to Ecuador using the US Dollar- SO cheap. It was a little slice of consumer heaven even for the non-shoppers like me. I also loved the people wearing traditional, indigenous dress around town. The people are beautiful and seem to preserve their culture carefully despite the influx of alpaca-hungry tourists.

A beautiful (and feisty) saleslady in traditional dress. Please note all alpaca goodies behind her.
Photo courtesy of Brighid Carey. Read her version of vacation on her blog here! 
MINDO
One of my favorite places on Earth. Because: chocolate tour, sustainable eco-tourism, community ownership over development, waterfalls! butterflies! zipling and hiking and sleeping a tree house! It's a cloud forest only two hours from Quito. No Amazon this year for me, but this was a pretty wonderful consolation prize.


You can barely capture its green beauty in a picture.

...or two.
COTOPAXI
If someone asked me, "Hey, would you like to hike up the world's third largest active volcano?" My answer probably would not be an enthusiastic yes. I huffed and puffed my way a few hundred meters to the Refugio at about 16,000 ft, and had one of those "Wow, I really just did that" moments and even more surprisingly thought next, "I really want to do that again!" Volcanoes are beautiful and hiking them is badass. Also, if you weren't already sold, there were beautiful wild horses.


Photographic Evidence!
And like I said, wild freakin horses. (Cotopaxi in the clouds to the left)


Stay tuned for the second week of vacation round-up! Medellin and Guatape and Ben's visit!

Friday, June 22, 2012

Things I LOVE about Colombia

It's officially vacation! Yes, I am just as excited as the kids, and couldn't be more ready to hit the road (or airport) for Ecuador! But first, I want to write some final thoughts on the Colombian-isms I have come to know so well. When asked at mid-service what I loved about Colombia, I had many things in the "like" or "really like" columns. After last weekend's trip to Villa de Leyva, a beautiful Colombian mountain town, I made a little mental list of things I am ready to move into love with. It's a growing list, but for now I will leave you with my top ten.

10. The weather. So I hail from New England. I'd consider myself immune to the constant changes within a single day, wearing layers, and always talking about how the weatherman got it wrong. But Colombians, especially Bogotanos, bring this weather talk to a whole new level. Bogota varies between about 50 and 75 degrees. Not a huge gap considering the actual seasons New England has. But when it's under 65 it's, "QUE FRIO!" The best part is not only what Bogotanos say about their own city, but more importantly what they say about surrounding places. Apparently they all think they are weather experts because when you say you are visiting a new place, the first response is the weather and what you should wear. When I went to Villa de Leyva everyone warned me it would be freezing... It's a desert. There are literally cacti on the side of the road. This is not cold, Colombia, but your idea of weather is endearing.


9. Speaking of weather, The biodiversity in Colombia is truly remarkable. I read in the guidebooks before coming that Colombia is one of the most bio-diverse countries on Earth. Thank you Amazon, Pacific and Atlantic Coasts, the Andes mountains, plains, and deserts. That beauty is really starting to show the more I travel. Our Earth is a remarkable place and Colombia has so much natural beauty to offer.

8. Bag culture. No, I'm talking about styles or brands. There's specific gestures and mannerisms that comes with bags here that we do not have in the USA. First, it is very common for men to carry bags. Yea, murses or whatever you want to call it. But heck, they are practical and everyone is doing it. Also, it's common for men to carry their girlfriends bag for them. The final thing I find so interesting is when the Transmilenio buses are super crowded (always) people sitting down will offer to hold your bags for you. It's common practice for whatever you are holding. I don't think this would fly in the US where we are so protective and have a serious sense of privacy, but here it's totally normal.

7. All things 80s. The decade of my birth is back and as great as ever here in Colombia. Scrunchies, flippy, crazy hair, punk styles, and especially the music. I cannot tell you how many times I've been in a bar here and heard the likings of Wham! or David Bowie. I dig it.


6. So much food. I can't list all of the food I love here, but here's what the beginning would look like... Arepas, Bon Ice, Jugos, plantains, all fruits, all veggies, bread, chocolate bread, the cupcake lady, Usaquen street vendors, street corn... you get the idea. And get this folks, it's a veggie friendly place. No problems here being a weirdo vegetarian chick.

5. The national anthem. It plays on every radio station each day at 6am and 6pm. It's catchy, though the words are totally flamboyant and over the top. And I'm not sure if I approve of the Christopher Colombus shout out, but I've learned nearly all the words already. Hopefully I learn more vocabulary and don't start talking like a Spanish conquistador.

4. The Nose Wrinkle! And the head nod for that matter. This is really better demonstrated, but you really don't notice subtle body language until you are surrounded by a new culture for a significant amount of time.  Instead of a "huh?" or eyebrow wrinkle, Colombians wrinkle their nose. And instead of waving someone to come over, they nod their head once. Think I Dream of Jeanie without the hand motions. It's great fun to adopt these new mannerisms and have a little secret code with your American friends here.

3. Nicknames. Colombians are SO into them. Muñeca (meaning doll) is my host mom's favorite for me. But everyone calls everyone the Colombian versions of my love, my life, little girl, little boy, my heart, little fatty, etc. Then they add -ita or -ito to the ends of nearly every word. Its a cultural way to soften words and sound sweeter I guess. So sometimes I get Kate-cita, and I'm totally ok with it. 

2. Affection. I know I may be the lone American that appreciates Colombian affection (most often publicly).  Sure sometimes they get carried away, but its so different from the US and I fit in much better with my fellow huggers and kissers (on the cheek) here. It's across genders too, girls hold hands, boys sit on other boys laps, and its all just signs of love and affection. Cariño or caring is what they would call it.

1. Teenagers. No, you didn't read wrong. I actually said I love teenagers. My students are between the ages of 13 and 16. Smack dab in one of the most awkward and hormonal times in life. And in many ways, Colombian teens aren't that much different than their American neighbors. But they're a little bit softer here (beneath the mohawks, heavy makeup, and leather jackets).  They have more affection for each other and respectful closeness with their teachers. I've gotten to know a lot of my students well at this point, and I enjoy teaching and learning from them. I can't imagine being with any other group of kids here.

To be continued...

Friday, June 15, 2012

Riding the Culture Wave

So here we are, smack dab in the middle of my year here. In some ways I can't believe it's already June, but I have certainly crammed a lot of experiences into the first half of the year. Last weekend WorldTeach hosted our mid-year conference in a town called Fusugasuga. (Try saying that five times fast! Or at all.) At the conference we got together to relax, share stories, and re-energize.

We talked a lot about where people are along the cultural curve, a different spin of the phenomenon of culture shock. The stages are the following: 1. Begin high, things are new and exciting; 2. Slip a little lower, frustrations with everyday life being more challenging in a new place; 3. Higher, adjusted and feeling comfortable; 4. Low, confronting deeper issues; and finally 5. Adaption and assimilation.

Many of us at the conference did not feel the natural wave of the culture curve fit our experiences here. Of course everyone takes in a new culture differently, and in general has different experiences  here that define their lives. In many ways, after the robbery, I felt like I was pushed off the cultural cliff. My sense of everything in a new place was tainted by the unfamiliar and now very scary. But I can see my personal wave headed back up again. Being around such great, supportive volunteers here and making connections with Colombian people and culture here has helped a lot.

I was reminded by one of the founders of my partner program here, Volunteers Colombia, that as teachers we need to be islands of excellence. We need to push away the excuses and focus on what we can control and make excellent in our classrooms. With the conclusion of my second quarter at school, the chapter here defined by the robbery has ceremoniously concluded. And I feel prepared to better dedicate myself to my classroom and give it my all as I finish what I came here to do. Third quarter will begin after my two week vacation and I will be ready to throw my heart into all aspects of living and teaching here in Colombia. There's been ups and there's been downs. That's my life here and I'm committed to stickin' it out and seeing what the next five months bring me.

And in case I need some visual encouragement, i present some of my ninth graders...

Daniel and Luis Felipe. 

Mauri and Felipe are buds. It took about 8 tries to get this picture.

These guys made a cultural magazine called "Bogota is Alive." 

And for the ladies class. This is Smarty-pants Juana.

My girls using Vermont magazines as inspiration for Bogota magazines!
Natalia, Zuadi, and Monica
Sometimes they get me to be silly.
And yes, these stupid hats made it to South America.


Wednesday, June 6, 2012

How To: Sunday Paseo- Boyaca in a Day

Last weekend, Natalie and I joined Brighid's host family for a traditional Colombian Sunday paseo. Colombians often work on Saturdays, so this means they take Sunday relaxing and free time very seriously. Brighid's host family invited us along to a town called Raquira. Raquira is an indigenous word meaning "city of pots." and the town certainly lives up to its name. So the three gringas went on the family road trip (about 4 hours from Bogota) to go pot-shopping. We certainly got more than we asked for, and ended up visiting almost all the hot spots in the department (equivalent of a state) of Boyaca (northeast of Bogota's department). Here's how we managed to squeeze everything into a day and have a successful Colombian Sunday.

1.  Squeeze as many people as possible into a little hatchback. Gas prices are HIGH in Colombia, and the roads are pretty winding. So be prepared to be a little squished and make the best of it. We chose to pass the time singing the Colombian National Anthem, speaking in English when no one else understands, and taking lots of landscape pictures.


2.  Bring snacks. We introduced Brighid's host parents to PB & J. They were pleasantly surprised by its deliciousness. It was a great cultural exchange. 

3. Be prepared to stop for coffee and church breaks. We assumed at first that we were stopping in the town of Chiquinquirá for a bathroom break. We ended up hanging out for an hour and a half exploring while the family went to mass in the giant cathedral. One city to check off the list.

Yes, that is a giant poster of Pope JP II. 
4. Have no expectations. I had read about Raquira in the guide books, and I'm a fan of ceramics, so it was on my list of places to see. But I wasn't sure what to expect and I was thrilled with the result. Raquira is literally filled with ceramics. Cheap beautiful pottery from dishwear to massive pots I only wish I could plant beautiful things in. Alas, I'm limited by luggage restrictions and practicality. So I settled on some classic kitchen pieces.



5. Take the long way around. The family was asking us which places we wanted to see, to which we responded "anywhere!" We ended up going further into Boyaca and visiting the town of Villa de Leyva. This was a treat because we have plans to go there next weekend. So we got a preview and can't wait to go back to the beautiful, desert-like, mountain town.  It was worth it to go a little further out of the way to hit another city on our list (we're up to three now).

The family (Manuela wins the cutest family member award) in
Villa de Leyva
6. When hungry, stop at any side-of-the-road barbecue joint. These are literally all over the highways around Colombia. And it's because so many people take these types of road trips on Sundays and festivos. Now, this may not be the first choice for any vegetarians here, but the plantains, potatoes, and arepas make it doable. And when you don't eat meat you get to attract really adorable puppies to you.


7.  When the sign says "Dairy Capital of Colombia," stop and get some dairy! It was getting late and when we made our final stop I was nervous we would never get home. The family wanted a snack of hot chocolate and cheese (a popular combo here) so we made a pit stop in Ubate- the dairy capital of Colombia. The stop was a quick one, and turned out to be SO worth it. Not only did we find GREEK YOGURT, but the store owner gave us token mini-pots to remember the day. Such a great keepsake for a very successful day.









Saturday, June 2, 2012

Colombia- Round Two.

Hello friends! Great news to report. I have a lovely, new home! This past week I have been settling in and getting acquainted to my new neighborhood. I now live on the top (6th) floor of an apartment in the neighborhood of Colina Campestre. This neighborhood, though further north, is only about a 15 minute drive to school and comes with lots of perks.

Giant terris! 

One of those apartments is Natalie's!
The first being that my buds Natalie and Mayis are right around the corner! And I now live with a woman named Gloria (Modern Family references encouraged and appropriate!) and a university student, Daniela. We all get a long great and I feel like I really have a host family (especially because I've already met half of Gloria's family in week one.)

Like I said, here is the family hanging out Saturday morning. (Gloria is on the air mattress)

The neighborhood is MUCH safer but doesnt' feel closed off like some more residential parts of cities can be.  There is a cheaper neighborhood complete with a great bakery, fruit stand, and a mysterious cupcake lady Natalie and I are on a mission to find. There is also a mall nearby with a cheap movie theater and get this... SUSHI and MIDDLE EASTER RESTAURANTS! Nom nom nom. But don't worry, there are still arepas on the street corner.

At first I was hesitant to move to such a nicer area of town. And things like public transportation are more challenging here (the richer are more likely to have cars). But I know that I am still getting an authentic Colombian experience here. The nerves and anxiety from the last few weeks have settled and I feel more like myself again here. It doesn't hurt that I have some amazing trips coming up during vacation, and my students are really making progress at school. I have lots to be happy about here. I'm especially glad I now have a place to call home again!

My awesome shelving unit.

My little room with the most comfortable bedspread ever.
Also, there are no Care Bears on my mattress like the last place :)

Yes, this is way above my expectations too.  You can even flush the toilet paper.


I think I'm gonna be just fine here!








Tuesday, May 22, 2012

Tranquila

Tranquila- this word wasn't taught to me in Spanish classes, but I've been hearing it and practicing it since day one in Colombia. Tranquila has many English synonyms such as relax, calm down, don't worry, you're welcome, or chill out. It's also one of those words that is used in ways we don't have an equivalent use for, and it is used A LOT. it can be used as an expression but also to describe a person or place. Everyone from teachers, to host moms, to the robbers have told me to tranquila. (Not surprisingly someone like me who cries easily gets told to chill out a lot.) But I have also been told I'm tranquila as a person (which I took as saying I'm more or less easy-going).

So the last few weeks in Bogota haven't been easy for me working many hours, healing and moving on, while still dealing with everyday cultural challenges of being in a new, weird place. Two weeks ago I had some particularly rough few days, and I felt anything but tranquila. So I thought about where I go to find tranquila, and the obvious answer for me is Vermont. Specifically way up in the little corner of Lake Champlain neighboring Quebec at my lake house. Long story short... I needed to make getting to Vermont and getting back to a peaceful place possible, and I did.


I have spent the last four days between Boston and Vermont, feeling more tranquila. I ate bagels and a lobster roll. I played with my puppies and stuck my feet and hands in the lake. I drank wine and (good) beer with friends. And I snuggled and picnicked with my love. I got the boost I needed to keep me going.

I wasn't planning on coming back to the states at any point this year. In reality, there isn't much about the states that I miss when I am away. My idea of a "home" has always been pretty open and has much more to do with the people I'm with that makes a place tranquila for me. But sometimes you surprise yourself with what you need. And I needed this weekend.

Thanks to everyone that helped me make this little break possible, and thanks to everyone who is part of my support system for this whole year's ups and downs. Tranquila is an important mantra I am going to keep holding onto throughout this year.



Tuesday, May 15, 2012

Not-So-Free Trade

Today marks the beginning of the United States and Colombia Free Trade Agreement (FTA). How did I know this was happening? Surely not from reading any American news sources. I learned this at school when news broke that a car bomb had exploded only a few miles away. Five people are reported dead and at least 19 are injured. There have been other bombs found throughout the city today.

Who or what is to blame? Many say FARC; many say because today marks the beginning of a disastrous economic shift for the Colombian and  US economies. I won't pretend to be an expert on trade, (though I do love my Student Labor Action Movement folks and am proud to have gone to a certified Fair Trade college!) Free Trade Agreements have a record of ruining exactly what they are portrayed as helping-- strengthening economies. 

I have noticed living here how many more products say "Hecho en Colombia" than say "Made in the USA" at home. Colombia is rich with farm production of delicious fruits and coffee and really whatever they need. Apparently the FTA is going to help the consumer (at the expense of producers) and we will see the benefits like cheaper flowers for the US and cheaper cars in Colombia. A big price to pay for a discount if you ask me...

I think this article from Colombia Reports says it best, so I will leave it to the journalists to state some of the consequences of what happened today. On a personal note, it's impossible to 100% forget that Colombia is a conflict- state. It's just below the surface in everyone and everything I experience here. More reflections on this later, but for now please read on... 


FTA will negatively affect 1.8 million farmers in Colombia: Report

On the eve of the start of the Colombia – U.S. Free Trade Agreement (FTA), the charity Oxfam said Monday the deal will bankrupt small farmers and increase poverty in rural Colombia.
“A significant number of small farm households would see substantial drops in their income as a result of the FTA,” the organization claimed in a report presented at a press conference Monday. “This would result in a deeper vulnerability for a population that has already been disproportionately affected by Colombia’s internal conflict.”
Oxfam’s report, presented in conjunction with human rights groups Planeta Paz and the U.S. Office on Colombia, said Colombia’s 1.8 million farmers will see their income drop by 16% as a result of the FTA, which takes effect Tuesday.
In an analysis of the small farm economy in Colombia, the report’s authors examined expected changes in domestic prices and what those changes could mean for the size and production levels of small farms.
According to the report, the deal with Colombia’s leading trade partner will hit the poorest farmers the hardest, arguing that 400,000 of those already making below minimum wage, currently set at $328.08 a month, will lose between 48% to 70% of their income.
To make up for the loss, the report said that farmers are "likely to take up coca cultivation" for illegal armed groups. The other option for farmers will be to “migrate to urban areas to join some 5 million Colombians – over 10 percent of Colombia’s total population –  who have been forcibly displaced from the countryside over the last 12 years and the great majority of whom live in extreme poverty,” it claimed.
The Colombian government has denied that the FTA will harm key agricultural sectors.
“I do not personally believe, nor does the government believe that an apocalyptic shadow is rising over the Colombian countryside, agriculture and livestock industries that will wipe out everything that has been built in the country,” the Agriculture Minister, Juan Camilo Restrepo has said.
The FTA will eliminate tariffs on more than 70% of Colombia’s agricultural exports to the U.S. immediately, while all remaining tariffs will end within 19 years. Duties on some of the more crucial exports, including rice and chicken, will be phased out over that time.
On Tuesday tariffs will end on 80% of American exports of consumer and industrial products.
Oxfam branded the agricultural negotiations of the deal “unfair,” criticizing the fact that sugar – a major Colombian export -- has been excluded from the tariff-dropping program all together.
It also argued the deal leaves Colombian farmers competing against heavily-subsidized American products.
“For practically all activities that compete with imports, the net income or profit would decrease to zero,” the report argued.
That would be true for rice, barley, beans, maize, sorghum, wheat, chicken, and pork – products which would all become more expensive to produce than to sell.
“The future of the country's agricultural sector will necessarily depend on the implementation of a reform and modernization program, consistent and enduring over time,” the report noted.
Favored trade treatment with the U.S. and the eventual elimination of all tariffs will leave Colombia with its hands tied for trade negotiations with other nations, Oxfam also alleged.
“This takes away an enormous amount of flexibility from Colombia in future trade negotiations,” the report said. “It impedes the country from granting preferential access to other countries for products in which Colombia has a comparative advantage, in exchange for favorable treatment in products of interest to Colombia.”
Oxfam has been an outspoken critic of the FTA. On the signing of the agreement in October 2011, the organization called the deal “a step backward for development and poverty reduction in Colombia.”
The FTA has also been fiercely criticized by human rights organizations and unions in both Colombia and the U.S. due to ongoing unionist killings and labor rights violations.



For further reading, and different viewpoints: